Live Edge Natural Wavy Siding
Our all-natural Live Edge Wavy Red Cedar Siding is machined in-house to meet our benchmarks. This long-lasting siding is made from top quality Eastern Red Cedar. Our Live Edge Natural Wavy siding is perfect for those with a taste for the whimsical or a more historical look to their structure.
Like all our siding, this product can be used in and outside the home; on garages, outbuildings, and more! This siding is resistant to many insects, including carpenter bees Our time tested techniques allow us to offer you the lowest prices without cutting those corners. This Siding waves in and out, creating various widths of coverage. Not sure how much Live Edge Natural Wavy Siding you need? Give us a call before ordering! 1-800-442-9942.
- 100% Eastern Red Cedar
- Naturally Carpenter Bee Resistant
- Excellent for siding, gables, and accents
- Lightweight and easy to install
- Authentic rustic look with natural wavy variation
- Thermally efficient and very durable
- Contains natural oils and resins that make it resistant to insects, rot, and decay
Live Edge Natural Wavy Siding Tips
Live edge siding is basically boards that have not been cut strait on one side. Instead they are left with the natural curves of the tree. You probably won’t find this kind of wood at any big box home improvement store, but through specialty suppliers or directly from the folks that milled the boards.
It takes a bit of care to cut boards like this so you might expect to pay a bit more for them. I know that seems counter intuitive because technically speaking the board is not fully cut. But any robot sawmill can cut strait boards; only someone with a careful eye can masterfully cut lengths of boards with a wild edge like this and still keep them useable as siding – covering the walls without gaps while still providing nice natural lines.
But it’s hard to argue that the extra time, money, and effort isn’t worth it… the final product is very appealing and really gives the home a unique personality.
Because each piece is different with natural variety, we recommend that you try and align butt joints based on the depth of the "wave" of the cedar to match the exposure at the butt joint. This will make it look like one solid piece without odd irregular butt joints
Due to the natural variety of each piece, it's a good idea to lay out the boards ahead of installation to make sure the natural waviness has a variety that meets your desired look. Swapping pieces up or down can help you achieve your preferred randomness and look. Save pieces with the least amount of wave for short cuts.
- All advertised sizes are approximate.
- Due to custom cutting & milling there are no refunds.
- We Offer Free Shipping on Many Items
- Free t-Shirt on all orders over $400.00
- Got a Question? No Problem! Call toll-free for Ordering Support 1-800-422-9912.
How to Install Cedar Bevel Siding
Cedar is a popular siding material for houses, especially in the western United States where that wood is plentiful. Cedar resists rot and decay and most insect infestations, so it is both attractive and durable. It can be stained in many shades or can be painted, although most cedar siding is left natural.
There are several types of cedar siding, but a standard option is beveled, angled so the bottom of the board is thicker than the top, to produce a natural flow of rainwater down the wall and protect against seepage into joints between boards.
- Wrap the house with a polyethylene or similar moisture barrier, stapled to the wooden wall sheathing with a construction stapler. Seal seams with a matching tape.
- Install corner trim on all corners, typically 1-by-4-inch boards nailed vertically, with the wide face of a board facing the street side of the house and overlapping the edge of the adjoining board. Use a level to set the trim plumb on both walls. Nail the trim with a hammer and galvanized nails. Extend it from the roof line to the bottom of the wall.
- Fasten a cedar starter strip the same thickness as the top of the beveled siding all around the house, using a tape measure and level to set it level along the bottom of the wall. Secure it to the bottom of the house sheathing with a hammer and galvanized nails long enough to penetrate the sheathing into the bottom plate of the wall by 1 1/4 inches.
- Set the first bevel board in place against the trim at a corner of the house. Align the bottom of the bevel plank with the bottom of the starter strip, with the end flush against the trim, and use a 4-foot level to level it. Fasten the plank with galvanized ring shank nails long enough to penetrate the siding, sheathing and into the wall studs at least 1 1/4 inch. Drive nails through the bottom of the board, about 1 inch above the edge, one nail in each stud, 16 inches apart.
- Nail on a second plank abutting the first. using a level to set it level. Work to the end of the house, adding planks. Cut a plank to fit at the end, trimming it to butt against the trim board.
- Start a second layer with a partial board so the siding seams do not align; use the piece cut off from the first layer if possible. Overlap the bottom of the second board 1 inch over the top of the first layer and fasten it with nails high enough to miss the top of the underlying board, usually about 1 1/2 inches up the plank. Use a level to keep the plank level.
- Work around and up the house, taking care to keep planks equal at corners on both sides; some installers run courses around the house to maintain this level, rather than nailing boards up a whole wall at one time. Work in layers as an alternative: nail on two or three courses on one wall, then work around the house matching those layers for level before starting over.
- Cut boards with a table or circular saw where necessary to fit around walls or windows. Measure openings carefully to notch out or cut holes with a hole saw or jigsaw for dryer vents, plumbing pipes, electrical outlets or other protrusions. Use long pieces of siding under windows, so the cutout is in the center of a plank and there are no butt joints under the window. Do the same at the tops of windows or doors.
- Cover the walls with beveled siding to the roof line. Trim the last planks if necessary by ripping off the tops with a table saw. Allow a gap of about 1/4 inch between the top of the last board and the soffit at the top of the wall. Seal that gap with molding to match the corner trim; trim pieces can be cedar like the siding or smooth-finished pine or cedar boards.
We Only Sell Aromatic Eastern Red Cedar
Our cedar panels can be used for closet liners, V-paneling and flooring. Our dehumidification chamber dries the cedar perfectly to maintain the wood’s natural scent, fiber texture, and color.
Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus Virginiana) is extremely resistant to and repels many types of pests, such as rodents, roaches and termites. Please take note: that most cedar products on the market are Western Cedar. Our Eastern Cedar products offer better durability and insect repellents. Not even carpenter bees will want to bore into our wood!
Red Cedar is not only a beautiful, durable wood, but it also has an AMAZING scent! This type of wood was commonly used by noblemen, royalty and Native Americans (Cherokee Indians) in both modern and Biblical times. All of our wood is hand-selected premium grade planed Red Cedar. Our flooring, trim, and lap-siding products can be used for closet liners, churches, basements, garages, tiny homes, log homes, tree houses and much more.
We also sell Cedar Siding products to fit your needs. There are an assortment of Cedar Shakes in various shapes and sizes available for your selection. Lap siding is also available in our store. Our Products can be used for interiors and exteriors. Use as Siding, Paneling, Flooring, and more!
About Red Cedar
Eastern red cedar grows in the eastern part of the United States, typically ranging between 20′-100′. Sometimes referred to as “aromatic cedar,” this cedar is known for its pungent scent from its natural oils. This cedar’s exterior boasts a reddish-violet tinted brown, while its inner sapwood appears pale yellow. The sapwood often makes an appearance throughout the heartwood.
The terms “red cedar” and “aromatic cedar” are markedly different in their context. Red cedar is a lay, or common, term. In a scientific context, the taxonomical names of trees -- Thuja plicata and Juniperus virginiana -- are used. Aromatic cedar, on the other hand, is a trade term used by carpenters, contractors and other professionals in the building trade.
The term refers specifically to the lumber of the eastern red cedar. It differs from the term “red cedar” in that red cedar refers to the tree as a whole, while “aromatic cedar” specifically denotes the wood of the eastern red cedar that is used in building projects and sometimes only building project lumber culled from specimens of eastern red cedar found in the southern portions of the Appalachian Mountains.
Conifer. Height 40 to 60 feet. Trunk diameter 2 to 4 feet. Usually a small tree, it has been known to grow 90 feet high with a trunk circumference of 13 feet. Distribution; Nova Scotia south to Georgia along the Atlantic Coast west to the Mississippi River states. It is the state tree of Tennessee. The eastern or "aromatic" red cedar is the species used for moth-proof storage chests and clothes closets. It is not to be confused with the huge timber species of the west coast: western red cedar and incense cedar.
A firm, stable softwood, the timber of this red cedar is highly prized for its beautiful, warm, deep, rich, red color and its most distinctive, everlasting, aromatic perfume. The wood is light and easy to work. It has numerous knots that make a handsome distinctive pattern. Otherwise it is straight and close grained. Due to its natural beauty and scent, it is never painted or stained. The wood is enduring - it is strong and durable. Its natural oils contain the secret of its success
Where aromatic red cedar is concerned, the knottier the wood the better. The many knots indicate the exceptionally high content of the aromatic oils that distinguish this wood from all others. The more oil the stronger the scent; the stronger the scent the deader the moth! (And, of course, the more wonderful smelling the stored woolen clothes.) This same oil makes cedar decay and insect resistant and waterproof; the perfect wood of choice for long term use. The wood also has low shrinkage and is very stable once applied.
Despite its relatively high cost, aromatic red cedar is worth the cost for the service it performs. It is typically available as veneer and lumber. The trunks of the majority of this red cedar are used for fence posts. The water resistant lumber is used in greenhouse construction and for window sills and small boat decks.
It is most commonly associated with cedar blanket chests, wardrobes, clothes closet interiors, storage room paneling and dresser drawer linings. It is also used for scientific instruments and novelties. The pencil in your hand or behind your ear is made of red cedar woods. This soft but firm, straight, close-grained wood is designed to sharpen perfectly and easily. Also, the shavings smell nice. Isn't nature grand!
Please give us a call, or shoot us a line and we will be happy to help you with your project or concerns.